Sending day!

Yesterday was my best day in the red since i've been here. For those non-climbers who are reading, sending means completing a climb, lead climbing, from begining to end without falls or sitting on the rope. Onsighting means never having seen a climb, and climbing it in the same way.

For those of you who have been to Kentucky, you will fondly remember Drive-By wall. Well, after multiple attempts, I had a days of sends yesterday which included:
Fire and Brimstone, 5.10D
Whip-Stocking, 5.11A and
Slick and the 9 mm 5.10B Onsight.

After a couple of frustrating weeks of poor weather, hurt elbow and not being in shape, it was a great day for me, physically and mentally. I feel like I am on my way and that many more sends on in the near future which is a nice accomplishment. Though I am not a grade chaser, I do feel great knowing that I have started to accomplish something, and these are my first big acheivments on this trip.

Meteor shower

When news of a pending meteor shower hit the hostel, plans were made to hit a high peak. Being climbers, of course we wanted to climb up something. Some new friends from the hostel suggested a 3 pitch peak called Cavers, which is easy 5.4 climbing through a chimney's, small caves and aretes. It was amazing, watching the stars as you climb through spaces barely big enough to fit your body. No risk of falling cause you were practically stuck in the rock.
Though there were some clouds we managed to see quite a few meteors before we rappelled down the 150 feet to the base and hiked out, just as it started raining.
A beautiful night indeed.

Rain and other things

These last couple of days have been raining, then hot and humid, then rain again. Basically, things have been unclimbable for a couple of the days this week. I've climbed incredibly wet climbs where the water drips down your elbows as you go and you come down looking like you've had a shower. And 2 other days have been impossible to climb. I had a great day yesterday on mostly dry stuff but last night it rained again so no climbing today. A hike will be in order as it is supposed to clear up this afternoon and the colors have started to be really beautiful down here. People here say they have not had weather this bad in a while, rarely can you not climb down here despite the rain and there are a lot of grumpy climbers.

On other news:

I have learnt that American hospitals work really well and efficiently (minor infection in my arm led me to the emergency room where I was in and out in 2 hours). Wow, what a difference from the General.

CAA works really well in the States. A friend had his car keys stolen and it towed him 50 miles and had new keys made for him. He only had to pay 20$.

I have a job for the weekend in the kitchen of the hostel nearby. It sort of fell onto my lap, pays well with benefits of free showers and laundry whenever I want, food when I work and a warm place to be if ever I want to hang out. Pretty good benefits. And I work evenings, so it does not interfere with climbing. We'll see how it goes this weekend, but basically, it could be my budget for the time that i'm here.

Despite the bad weather, I have managed to improve a lot in the past 2 weeks and i'm finally starting to get back to where I was in the spring. Climbing with some really strong climbers has helped immensely, and i'm now leading soft 11's and playing around on some 12's.

By the way, the photo 2 entries below is the beginning of Toker 11a at Bob Marley crag, a jump start with your belayer below your feet and you on the edge of a rock. It was a pretty scary move, despite be stick-clipped, but a cool shot.

New Recipe and a Rainy Night

After a rainy day of climbing (there have been quite a few here) and looking out into the pouring rain from my car, the thought of returning to the campground to cold and wet was not appealing. Remembering an earlier plan to have supper at a friends cabin, a third friend and I decided to make it happen. After a quick raid of our dry food bins and scrambling up a bunch of food items, still unsure how to combine, we headed over to the heat, had nice hot showers, listened to the rain hit the tin roof, had a couple of beers and came up with this great new recipe. Who says you can't be creative when cooking when camping.

So here goes:

Dish #1

Rice with mushrooms (saute mushrooms with a little oil before adding rice and water).
Add olives and pesto sauce after boiling rice.

Dish #2

Fry onions, mushrooms, garlic, tofu, tomato paste and canned tomatoes, chili powder with some oil.

Combine, with a side of corn and you have an amazingly tasty meal. One for the recipe books for sure.

And then for desert:

Cut 1 banana (per person) down the center, pack with chocolate (preferably dark chocolate). Wrap in foil (can be done on barbq or oven). Cook until chocolate melted.
Open banana, add ice cream of your choice on top and eat directly from banana.

A very tasty treat!

New River Gorge

After a week and a half of climbing in Kentucky, a small group of us went to West Virginia to the New River Gorge, and smaller but equally fun climbing crag. Camping was free (though we were surrounded by RV's) and the climbing was great. I've met up with quite a few gear climbers and have therefore been able to do some amazing crack climbing. I continue to grow a love for it and though I'm only following other peoples' placements for the moment, I feel a desire to start myself.

After 2 days of wonderful climbing, and a quick visit to Crows Nest bouldering area (on the edge of a river) we made it back to Kentucky in time for Rocktoberfest, a huge gathering of climbers. Those of us who are here for a while feel like our home has been invaded with nowhere to park, eat or sit and did I mention that we've had 2 mornings of frost? Yes, it was still at 0 degrees at 9 a.m. yesterday morning. Good thing I brought some winter clothes. I've heard it's been quite warm comparatively in Montreal.

And so, the climbing life continues. I'm learning quickly how to live cheaply, climb hard and get into shape and deal with numb fingers when climbing (it makes for some great friction though).

I plan to spend the next month here at least before I move on, the climbing here is endless and the passion abounds.

Climbing in Kentucky

A week it has been of climbing, beautiful weather, good nights by the campfire and good times with friends. The weekends have been busy, but the weekdays nice with about 30 of us who are here for the rest of the season.

Starting to get back into shape after my summer of no climbing and this is certainly the place to do it. Overhanging is hard for me still and I haven't started many projects, but hopefully by next week i'll have news of some wonderful sends. Nonetheless, there is nothing more beautiful then spending a day at the crag. The leaves are starting to change slowly, and the colors are already gorgeous.

Pictures to follow soon.